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El Chalten

El Chalten is the best day-hiking destination in the world. Where else can you do 3 different incredible dayhikes starting from your hotel? All three of these premier walks could be put in a top 10 list of the world’s best day-hikes and nobody would question it. They are that good!

El Chalten from Los Condores viewpoint

I’ve been to El Chalten 4 times now, beginning in 2004 when it was just a sleepy little village without many food options. It’s much bigger now but is still tilts more to the sleepy side of the spectrum. The last time I was here was in November 2018 so hopefully my info isn’t too dated. But I stayed over 40 days that time so hopefully I know a few things too. Let’s begin with the 3 premier hikes, cause that’s why you’re here, right?

Top hikes

Laguna Torre

Cerro Torre

I’ve probably done this one 7-10 times and it really never gets old. The lake and Cerro Torre are just incredible and you have pretty good views most of the way. It is also by far the flattest of the three and the shortest too—about 8 kilometers each way. It can be completed in 6 or 7 hours…there’s some ‘up’ at the beginning and a few short climbs on the way and at the end but nothing mind-numbing. I’m jealous of you already…not too jealous though because I’m currently in Nepal. Always remember rule #1, work is evil!

Laguna Torre

Laguna de Los Tres

The second premier hike is the most popular hike and that is to ‘Laguna de los Tres’. It begins with a climb with a viewpoint of the ‘Las Vueltas’ river after about 10-15 minutes. It’s a nice forest and after about 45 minutes you reach the Fitz Roy viewpoint:

Fitz Roy viewpoint

A lot of people only make it this far and indeed if you are looking for a short jaunt you can just go up to this viewpoint and back. After this it is relatively flat and easy walking and you can see Fitz Roy most of the way.

Laguna de los Tres dayhike

The kilometre signs keep going along nicely until there is about a kilometre left. Then there is a mind-numbing really boring climb up to ‘Laguna de los Tres’. It is just a rocky exposed switchback that seems to go up forever. You see the top and finally arrive but guess what? It’s not the top, is it? Nope, there is another top and another top and another top…until finally once you’ve given up all hope the real top arrives. Then it’s glorious and all worthwhile. Still, I think I’ve only done this hike 3 or 4. I’ve gone to the bottom of the hill and turned back a couple times too. At the top make sure to take the trail to to a view overlooking Laguna Suecia. It’s only a few minutes up from the lake on the left side. If you happen to want to return a different way, there is a trail (Senda Pilar) to ‘Hosteria El Pilar’ that is actually really nice and has some glacier views too. Transport from back to El Chalten from El Pilar should be arranged beforehand though.

Laguna Sucia and Laguna de los Tres

Tumbado

The last premier hike in the area is a bit shorter than Laguna de los Tres but gets to a similar elevation. The trail to leaves near the park office and you can do it in about 6 hours return. There isn’t much flat on the way–it is all uphill. The trail climbs through beautiful forest and then the last 1/3 of the hike is about the treeline. It can be unbelievably windy but the view is incredible.

I usually stop at the ridge where the view of Laguna Torre is, but there is a steep climb up to the top of another viewpoint with 360 degree views.

Other hikes

Laguna Suecia – The side trail to this hike isn’t marked and leaves the main trail to Laguna de los Tres just after crossing the river right before the steep ascent. It is necessary to register at the park office first and this hike definitely shouldn’t be done alone as there are some dangerous bits. The lake was incredibly windy when I was there!

Laguna Suecia

Piedra del Fraile – This is a really nice hike that you won’t see many people on. There is an admission fee payable at the ‘Refugio Piedra del Fraile’ because the trail is on private land. You can stay at the refugio or just stop by for some snacks. The hike isn’t as amazing as some of the top treks but it is still really nice and enjoyable. There is more detailed info on this hike on the El Chalten website.

Los Condores

This is a great short hike to do if you arrive in the afternoon and want a short jaunt (about 2 hours total). It has the best view of El Chalten (photo at the top of this post) and really nice mountain views as well. In November there were mountain flowers everywhere. Note: It’s also possible to continue a bit further (30 minutes) to ‘Las Aguilas’ viewpoint–for a nice view of the south side of the ridge.

View from Los Condores

Chorillo del Salto

A flat easy walk to a waterfall. It’s okay but for me it’s skippable. It’s about a 2 hour return walk.

Lago del Desierto

With a car or taxi there are hikes over here that I haven’t done yet (next time!). It is also possible to trek and boat your way to Chile and the Carreterra Austral. I haven’t done that yet either!

Accommodation

I’ve stayed in 3 different hostels over the years but by far my favorite is ‘Condor de las Andes‘. The staff here is super-friendly and you can see the mountains from the dining room in the hostel. That is really important for determining whether or not you want to hike or not. There are many cloudy days in El Chalten (maybe 50%) and it’s great to see the mountains from the hostel! Irregardless, I would definitely always stay on that side of town (near the bus station/center). I’ve stayed on the north end of town before and it’s impossible to tell if the mountains are clear or not.

View from Condor de Los Andes

Food

I’ve eaten at a lot of places. So many! But my favorites are La Tapera and the small restaurant at ‘Hosteria Senderos’ (these may both require a reservation in high season).

Curcuma is great for vegetarian and vegan food. Really yummy stuff there

I love the historic and rustic La Chocolateria, for um…chocolate of course. It’s also my favorite place for an afternoon hangout/coffee spot.

Domo Blanco has a large selection of delicious ice cream.

Que Rika bakery has cheap ready-made wrapped sandwiches that you can grab on your way out trekking!

For supermarkets Los Chimbotes was much cheaper than the supermarkets in the center (November 2018). Of course, I don’t know if that is still the case but it’s worth checking out!

I hope this post is useful and enjoy El Chalten!